Nothing speaks to the essential nature of the Chiang Mai experience quite like the city’s market scene. Your nose will try to guide you through the Old Town, and you will be well served if you allow it; there’s a good chance you will end up at Samoer Jai, the beloved khao soi emporium near Fa Ham Temple, where hearty yellow noodles dance in a fragrant coconut curry under a tangled web of crispy noodles. Warorot Market’s hawkers dish some of the finest khao soi in town, but the real draw here has always been savoury sai ua; these minced pork sausages are flavoured with dozens of different spices, packed with chillies, then coiled like serpents in bamboo baskets from which eager eaters snatch them up. The most popular sai ua vendor at Warorot is Damrong, which is often sold out by late morning. Sai ua pairs perfectly with mango and sticky rice, especially if you’re averse to Thai spice.